Journey versus Destination

This long-standing debate was obvious between Nick and myself on our first full day of touring in Iceland with our 4x4.  The night before, when we checked into our first hotel outside of Reykjavik in Hvollsvollur, we asked the clerk how far away were the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss because we planned to go there first thing in the morning.  She asked if we had a 4x4, and when we said we did, she suggested we take the Road to Thorsmork (meaning Thor's Forest) and mentioned how the landscape had changed after the eruption of Eyjafjallajokull 2 years ago, the one that caused major delays in air travel to and from Europe.  We stopped by a little Visitors Center AFTER we drove the road to Thorsmork.  So we got to see how the area flooded only after the journey.

The road F249 brings you behind the glacier to the rift where the Eyjafjallajokull eruption first started.  Basically the road runs in the bed of the river Krossa (yes I said "in" the river) which flooded when Eyjafjallajokull melted part of the glacier, Steinholt glacier (a tongue reaching down) and came barrelling down into the riverbed below.  Now there are quite a few rivulets coming from the glacier high above, but it's still an adventure to drive it.  Notwithstanding the amazing scenery surrounding us, we met our first sheep in the middle of the road, which is part of the adventure.  We were off!

Sheep walking on the road to Thorsmork

Eyjafjallajokull glacier with the Steinholt glacier tongue reaching down

I was enjoying the journey.  Nick was wondering if we were on the right road!!  He kept asking me to check the map; and he was wondering how long it would take to "get there" (the destination).  He was concentrating on driving the road, what to do when we had to ford the riverlets, which he tackled one by one like obstacles to our destination.

We came across our first of about a dozen "river crossings".  It was a little unnerving at first, but Nick became a real pro after a while.

First river crossing in 4x4 on road to Thorsmork (this is a little one).

Another river crossing (mid-crossing actually)

We finally reached Thorsmork and I could tell Nick was a little disappointed.  I guess he was expecting something to be there at Thorsmork, but it's just a region.  So he took a photo of the sign and kept going a little to see what there was.

We reached the end where there was a campground with only hiking paths leading up between the pass to Skogar, which is where we were heading anyways, but would have to return on the road back to where we started and then continue along highway 1.  This time I think he got it!  It's the journey, not the destination.  On our way back we stopped and hiked Stakkholtsgja Canyon which had a beautiful waterfall at the end.  We also went up a little closer to the Steinholt Glacier tongue.  We enjoyed the journey because that's what it was all about in the first place.

Stakkholtsgja Canyon

Nick hiking in the Stakkholtsgja Canyon

Annie hiking the canyon

  

The cherry on the sundae - the waterfall at the end of the Stakkholtsgja Canyon

Steinholt Glacier tongue

The silt and ash are still visible in the glacier from the eruption 2 years ago.  There used to be a large lagoon at the end of the tongue (as there is with most glacier tongues).  However this one was filled in with the rocks, ash and silt.  It will redevelop over time as Mother Nature does her magic.

After completing our trek on F249, I read warnings in some tourist pamphlets (that we did not have beforehand) that this road is only to be taken by experienced 4x4 drivers and should be done in "caravan" style (meaning do not venture alone, go in a group).  Here's an example of a warning "Only the most seasoned drivers with altered 4×4 trucks cross these rivers and even they sometimes get into trouble."  Oh well!! Part of the journey experience I guess.